Gote Shibari

This version is fine for floor-level bondage, but do not use it for suspensions.

This tutorial shows you the basic stylistic techniques for this tie, but does not cover some very important concepts about even tension and adjusting the tie for your partner’s body type.  Therefore, this version is fine for floor-level bondage, but do not use it for suspensions.  We will be shooting an update to this video that will cover these other concepts more fully and I will alert members via Patreon when the update is released.


This is a go-to box tie used by riggers around the world. This tutorial covers the classic “2-Rope” version that is often the first/basic version that riggers learn and also covers 3 different common variants for the “3rd-Rope”. Properly applied, this box tie is very difficult to escape from.

You may have seen this tie and its variants before under the name “Takate Kote” or “TK”. Technically speaking, the TK is a very specific variant of Gote Shibari with very specific and proscribed steps (with certain accepted variants). This tutorial teaches the same steps and variations that you may have seen labeled as a TK before, but it does not go over a number of the detailed technical elements included in the formal “TK”, so this should better be referred to as “Gote Shibari” — which translates pretty directly as “hands tied behind the back”.

I point out safety considerations at appropriate points throughout the tutorial as well. Be sure to read and understand them.

Warning: While you often see such box ties used in suspension, don’t use this version a for suspension as it places the majority of a person’s weight on their arms, which can *very* easily cause severe injuries to the radial nerve if improperly placed or tensioned, and that damage can take months to heel. If you want to do suspensions with a box tie, there are far safer versions that place the load (tension, weight, stress) on the chest, instead of the arms. These chest-loading versions look almost the same, but their design makes them more safer for suspension.

Note: There are quite a lot of steps in this tutorial, but once you have have practiced it and the moves are second nature, you can get this on your partner in 4-5 minutes or even less. I show each step in detail just to try to explain all the details and nuances.


I often teach this tie as the capstone of my Bondage 101/102 series.  It is often the first Intermediate tie that budding rope enthusiasts learn.  So you should have a command of the Core Knowledge before you move on to this, but the particular things you need are:

Somerville Bowline
Square-Friction (aka half-moon friction)
Munter Hitch (aka Crossing Hitch)
Half Hitch

To see how this tie looks and works on different body types, check out both the pictorial and video versions!  Thanks to the FABulous LeeLee Cocodrie for her help with the video!

For this tie, I used one 30′ (9m) and two 15′ (5m) pieces of Natural 6mm (1/4″) hemp provided by my affiliate Twisted Monk.  Check them out for some amazing hemp rope!

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This tutorial shows you  how to do 4 different ties that are all built on the same base:


Y-Harness 3TK (Y-3TK)

3TK or "X-3TK"


Mt. Fuji 3TK


This video contains:

The 5 steps for creating the classic 2-Rope Takate Kote (2TK)…

1. A single-column around both wrists [0.40]
2. The upper chest strap, secured by an X friction (Includes nerve safety) [1.10]
3. Cinch and lock the upper strap (add Kannuki) [2.37]
4. The mid-chest strap, secure with Square Friction or X Friction [7.06]
5. Cinch and lock the mid-chest strap [9.55]

…and 3 options for adding a 3rd rope (3TK), which provides for greater vertical stability and artistry

1. The Y-Harness [13.36]
2. The “3TK” or X-Variant [20.40]
3. The “Mt. Fuji 3TK” [29.35]

If you are just learning the TK, you should watch the whole video, but the [time] boxes will let you jump to any section, if needed.

The pictorial version for each Phase of the 2TK and each option for the 3TK are broken down into their dedicated sections below.

The traditional form of the TK now adds Kannuki (locking cinches) to the top strap before moving on to the next strap.  Kannuki ensure that the top strap cannot by moved up over the shoulders to release the bondage.  However, that approach means that there are strands of rope running directly through the armpit, another area that contains many nerves and blood vessels.  Many riggers are moving away from this approach to another that has fewer risks and that many rope bottoms find much more comfortable.  This new approach is one that I will show in Phase 5, but I am going to take a moment to show you how to add Kannuki at this point in case you want a more classic look.

Option 1 – The Classic Kannuki – Choose this if you did the Optional Phase 3 above

Option 2 – The Multi-strap Kannuki – Choose this if you did not do the Optional Phase 3 above


Here are 3 options for adding more stability, security and artistry by adding a 3rd rope.  These techniques can also be used to “use up” rope that you may have left over from your 2TK.

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