比基尼绳束
先决条件:
第二版--图片和文字

1.我们从我们的伙伴的背部开始

2.从大约30英尺(9米)长的绳子开始(取决于你伙伴的大小)。用绳子绕着你的伙伴的身体形成一个云雀的头...

3.......乳房下方/横跨上胸。

4.反转张力,第二次将绳子绕过下胸。把这个新的缠绕放在第一次缠绕的下面。将你的手指向下滑动,穿过你刚刚形成的新绳圈...
确保所有线都具有相同的张力,并且平坦有序。绳索不应该相互叠加,因为产生了压力点,过一段时间会导致疼痛。无计划或不受控的疼痛从不是件好事。

5.将尾巴拉过

6.反向张力

7.再次将绳索缠绕在你的伙伴身上,然后将你的手指滑入新绳索下,用手指抓住绳尾

8.将尾巴拉过,反转张力,再次将绳索缠绕在你伙伴的上胸,将这第二圈缠绕在第一圈的上方。

9. 手指伸入刚形成了的绳耳。
(不知道为什么,我拍这张照片时,好像把第二次的缠绕位置在第一次的缠绕的线之下。其实应该往上。视频中示范得比较好。)

10.抓住尾巴...

11....把它拉过去...

12.反转张力,然后将绳索穿过你的伙伴的肩膀

13....把它带到前面,把绳子放在上面...

14.伸手到下层带子下面

15.把尾巴拉过去,然后抓紧下带的所有绳索,使其平坦有序...

16.扭转张力,*原路返回*。

17.伸手到顶带下面,抓住尾巴

18.再次握住带子的绳索,使其保持平整...

19.......并将绳索带到对面的肩膀上

20.它创造了这个漂亮的转折

21.在这里留下一条漂亮的直线,如果你喜欢,可以把它收紧。这也是一个很好的把手... :)

22.将绳索穿过对面的肩膀,确保两个肩膀上的张力相同。你很可能还需要再次包扎下带的绳索。

23.现在我们将把绳索绕着这个上面的十字架编织起来,然后再把它们锁住。在对面的肩带上方*交叉

24.*在*胸带下方

25.*超过*中心线...

26....因此...

27.*在*的胸带下...

28.拧紧

29.把你的手放在尾巴的前面,手指放在中心线的后面。

30.将尾巴交给手指...

31.将尾巴拉过

32.拉紧

33.如果你使用的是滑溜溜的绳子,可以用同样的技巧增加第二个半搭钩

34.拧紧。这就是完成的线束

35.......只是我们有一点线要用掉。












第1版--图片和文字

1.从大约30英尺(9米)长的绳子开始(取决于你伙伴的大小)。用绳子绕着你的伙伴的身体形成一个云雀的头...
(我们将从云雀头单列的第一部分开始,围绕她的胸部)

2....在乳房上方/横跨上胸。

3.扭转张力,第二次将绳子绕过上胸。把这个新的缠绕放在第一次缠绕的上方。将你的手指向上滑过你刚刚形成的新绕线...
确保所有线都具有相同的张力,并且平坦有序。绳索不应该相互叠加,因为产生了压力点,过一段时间会导致疼痛。无计划或不受控的疼痛从不是件好事。

4....这样你就可以轻松地抓住尾巴....。

5.......并把它拉过去,然后反向拉紧。

6.再把绳子缠在你的伙伴身上...

7.......这次是在乳房下方/跨过下胸。

8.再一次,将你的手指向上滑动,穿过你刚刚形成的新弯管,这样你就可以很容易地抓住尾部...

9....并把它拉过去。

10.再次逆转张力,再次环绕你的伙伴......

11....低于之前的包裹...

12....这样,当我们把绳子拉过新的捆绑点时...

13....它将自然地向上流动,这是我们想要去的地方

14.将绳子向肩部拉起(再次扭转张力,以保持所有的东西都在原位)。
这里有很多变化的空间。你不必在乳房上方和下方放四根绳子,一个圈(两根绳子)也可以,虽然更紧张。

15.在颈部肌肉(斜方肌)与肩部肌肉(三角肌)相交的地方越过肩部

16....把它带到前面,把绳子放在上下胸带的上面

17.将你的手指滑到下部的带子下面。
注意是对于与肩膀线同一侧的活端这么做。图中,绳索压过右边的肩膀,所以我的手指也是在活端的右边。

18.对上面的带子做同样的事情。

19.将绳子穿过

20....朝着对面的肩膀


22.将绳索拉到对面的肩膀上
确保双肩上的绳索张力都相同。

23.用你的手指穿过绳索刚刚越过的肩部对面的下束。

24.将尾巴拉过
我们便差不多完成了。接下来的几步就是把绑缚结束......

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My model has a slightly larger than average frame, I used about 50ft of rope. Thanks for the tutorial!
Version 1 starts with wraps above the breasts and version 2 starts below. What is the best way to start?
I usually use version 2, building from the bottom up. It tends to generate less overall bulk as it doesn’t concentrate as many cords in one location.
Version 1 can be helpful if you *want* the cords concentrated. Perhaps you are planning to cinch the cords tight in the front as well for some breast bondage, for example.
I can understand how version 2 makes it less concentrated on the back, But why does version 1 start the wraps above the breast then?
Could version 1 just as well have started wrapping below the breasts with no implication?
What do you meen by your last comment about version 1 and tightness for breast bondage? 🙂
Hi very nice
Lazarus I just bought a posable mannequin for practice. This is the first tie I did on it. Thanks for all your work
Where do you get the mannequin to practice on?
I have an article on that! My “Model”
Thank you. I have since gotten a dress form mannequin with posable arms and it does a decent job for practicing ties that require more patience and looking at my laptop than any human I know would put up with
I was going to leave a comment asking about concerns around suspensions, then I remembered a conversation on the Discord server. I’m just going over to the suspension course.
A good note. This version is fast and smooth … but that means that it is not locked off at each band. Therefore, this version is not suitable for suspensions. Look to the Shinju for something very similar that *is* locked off.
I’m curious…any way to have the lower rope under the breast to be straight and not bent upwards by the tension of the rope between the breasts,
Sort of yes, sort of no. That shape is dictated by the tension of the two. If the lower chest strap is quite tight and the shoulder strap is not vary tight, it will not cause that change in shape. …However, the harness will also not feel the same to your partner. You can do it either way, but talk with your partner about how they feel in the tie one way vs the other…