Bikini Harness

Bikini-Harness-2

This is a very simple and popular harness and a good first layer upon which to build additional bondage.  It is very similar to the Shinju, but it puts the twist in the front at a different place and does not lock each strap.  This makes it fast to put on and a fine choice for floor work (non-suspension bondage), but this is not a good choice for suspensions.  Look to the Shinju or Suspension Shinju for something with a very similar look, but that *is* locked off so can be used for suspensions.

Pros: You can make this quite tight without significant a risk

Cons: Be sure to check our Safety page for important information about tight chest harnesses when combined with tight waist restraints

Version 2 provides better distribution of the knots in the back, in case you lay your partner down.

Version 1 can be cinched down on breasts more tightly for breast bondage.

Coil of Rope

For this tutorial, I used one 30′ (~9m) piece of Natural 6mm provided by my affiliate Twisted Monk. But my model is quite small and you may need more.

Check them out for some amazing hemp rope!

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Prerequisites:

Version 2 - Pictures & Text

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1. We start from our partner’s back

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2. Start with a ~30 foot (9m) length of rope (depending on the size of your partner). Form a Lark’s Head with the rope running around your partner’s body…

Bikini-Harness-2--03

3. …below the breasts/across the upper chest.

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4. Reverse tension and wrap the rope around across the lower chest a second time. Place this new wrap below the first wrap. Slide your fingers down through the new bight you just formed…

Make sure all the strands have the same tension and lie flat and orderly across your partner’s skin. You don’t want ropes lines on top of each other as that will create a pressure point which will be painful after a while. Unplanned/uncontrolled pain = bad.

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5. Pull the tail through

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6. Reverse tension

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7. Wrap the rope around your partner again, then slip your fingers under the new cords and grab the tail with your fingers

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8. Pull the tail through, reverse the tension and wrap the cords around your partner’s upper chest again, wrap this second wrap above the first wrap

Bikini-Harness-2--09

9. Slide your fingers through the last bight you make

(For some reason, I seem to have wrapped the second wrap below the first wrap when I took this picture. You actually want to *above*. The video shows this better.)

Bikini-Harness-2--10

10. Grab the tail…

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11. …pull it through…

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12. Reverse the tension, then run the cords over your partner’s shoulder

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13. …bringing it to the front, laying the rope on top of the upper…

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14. Reach under the lower strap

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15. Pull the tail through, then grip all the cords in the lower strap to keep them flat and orderly…

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16. Reverse the tension and *go back the way you came*

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17. Reach under the top strap and grab the tail

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18. Again hold the cords of the strap to keep them flat…

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19. …and bring the cord to the opposite shoulder

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20. It creates this nice twist

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21. Leaving a nice straight line here that can be cinched tightly if you like. It also makes a nice handle… :)

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22. Run the cord over the opposite shoulder, making sure the tension on both shoulders in the same. You will likely also need to dress the cords of the lower strap again.

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23. Now we will weave the cords around this upper cross before locking them off. Cross *above* the opposite shoulder strap

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24. *Below* the chest strap

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25. *Over* the center line…

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26. …thus…

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27. *Under* the chest strap…

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28. Tighten

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29. Put your hand in front of the tail, and your fingers behind the center line.

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30. Hand the tail to your fingers…

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31. Pull the tail through

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32. Pull tight

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33. If you are using slippery rope, add a second half hitch using the same technique

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34. Tighten. This is the completed harness

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35. …except that we have a bit of line to use up.

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Bikini-Harness-2--46
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Version 1 - Pictures & Text

1. Start with a ~30 foot (9m) length of rope (depending on the size of your partner). Form a Lark’s Head with the rope running around your partner’s body…

(We’re going to start with the first part of a Lark’s Head Single Column around her chest)

2. …above the breasts/across the upper chest.

3. Reverse tension and wrap the rope around across the upper chest a second time. Place this new wrap above the first wrap. Slide your fingers up through the new bight you just formed…

Make sure all the strands have the same tension and lie flat and orderly across your partner’s skin. You don’t want ropes lines on top of each other as that will create a pressure point which will be painful after a while. Unplanned/uncontrolled pain = bad.

4. …so that you can easily grab the tail….

5. …and pull it through and reverse tension.

6. Wrap the rope around your partner again…

7. …this time below the breasts/across the lower chest.

8. Again, slide your fingers up through the new bight you just formed, so that you can easily grab the tail…

9. …and pull it through.

10. Reverse tension again and wrap around your partner again…

11. …below the prior wrap…

12. …so that when we pull the rope through the new bight…

13. …it will naturally flow upward, which is where we want to go

14. Pull the rope up toward the shoulder (again reversing tension to keep everything in place)

There is plenty of room for variation here. You didn’t have to put four strands above and below the breasts, one loop (two strands) would be fine too, although more intense

15. Go over the shoulder at the place where the neck muscle (trapezius) meets the shoulder muscle (deltoid)

16. …bringing it to the front, laying the rope on top of the upper and lower chest straps

17. Slide your fingers under the lower strap.

Note that you should do so on the same side of the tail as the shoulder rope. In this picture, the rope is going over the shoulder on the right, so my fingers are on the right side of the tails.

18. Do the same thing on the top strap.

19. Draw the rope through

20. …toward the opposite shoulder

22. Pull the ropes over the opposite shoulder

Make sure that the tension of the ropes on both shoulders are the same.

23. Slide your fingers through the lower bight on the opposite side from the shoulder the rope has just gone over

24. Pull the tail through

We are pretty much done. The next few steps just tie off the rope…

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13 Comments

  1. My model has a slightly larger than average frame, I used about 50ft of rope. Thanks for the tutorial!

  2. Version 1 starts with wraps above the breasts and version 2 starts below. What is the best way to start?

    1. I usually use version 2, building from the bottom up. It tends to generate less overall bulk as it doesn’t concentrate as many cords in one location.
      Version 1 can be helpful if you *want* the cords concentrated. Perhaps you are planning to cinch the cords tight in the front as well for some breast bondage, for example.

      1. I can understand how version 2 makes it less concentrated on the back, But why does version 1 start the wraps above the breast then?
        Could version 1 just as well have started wrapping below the breasts with no implication?

        What do you meen by your last comment about version 1 and tightness for breast bondage? 🙂

  3. Lazarus I just bought a posable mannequin for practice. This is the first tie I did on it. Thanks for all your work

  4. Where do you get the mannequin to practice on?

      1. Thank you. I have since gotten a dress form mannequin with posable arms and it does a decent job for practicing ties that require more patience and looking at my laptop than any human I know would put up with

  5. I was going to leave a comment asking about concerns around suspensions, then I remembered a conversation on the Discord server. I’m just going over to the suspension course.

    1. A good note. This version is fast and smooth … but that means that it is not locked off at each band. Therefore, this version is not suitable for suspensions. Look to the Shinju for something very similar that *is* locked off.

  6. I’m curious…any way to have the lower rope under the breast to be straight and not bent upwards by the tension of the rope between the breasts,

    1. Sort of yes, sort of no. That shape is dictated by the tension of the two. If the lower chest strap is quite tight and the shoulder strap is not vary tight, it will not cause that change in shape. …However, the harness will also not feel the same to your partner. You can do it either way, but talk with your partner about how they feel in the tie one way vs the other…

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