Shinju
This classic chest harness, known and practiced by riggers throughout the world, is simple, secure and, when applied properly, can be used for suspension. Using this as your primary upper-body suspension attachment harness means that your partner’s weight is supported by their rib cage and not their arms, reducing the risk of radial nerve injury so common with the standard TK (Takate Kote). Also check out the Suspension Shinju, an update that is even more interconnected and good for suspension.
This tie can also be used for breast bondage: Make the upper and lower chest straps very tight, then use the line that goes between the breasts to cinch the upper and lower chest straps together, thereby trapping and accenting the breasts. Other breast bondage techniques can be found in the Cross-your-heart Breast Harness and the Cinch & Wrap Breast Bondage tutorials
The video shows the more classic method of building the top strap first. The pictorial version shows an alternate where we build from the lower strap first.
Notes: If you plan to use this for suspension, make sure the lower strap is not too low. You don’t want it around just the lower ribs; the ribs in the center and upper chest are much stronger and more able to safely hold a person’s weight.
If you are tying a larger body–doesn’t matter if it is due to muscle or fat–you need more support or it will become unbearable quite quickly, so add more wraps to the upper and lower straps. Instead of stopping with 2 as I do here, add 3, 4 or even 5. If you need more rope, just extend it 🙂
For this tie, I used one 30′ (~9m) piece of Natural 6mm provided by my affiliate Twisted Monk. But my model is quite small and you may need more.
Pictures & Text
1. Place your fingers through a bight at the center of a long rope
2. Wrap the rope around your partner’s lower chest, grab the tails with your fingers
3. Reverse the tension and begin wrapping the tail around again, below the first wrap
We wrap below so that the tail will naturally flow upward once we lock off the first strap
4. Reach through the new bight and grab the tail
5. Pull the tail through
6. Hold a bit of the tail with one hand, then reach under the lower strap with your other hand and grab the tail
7. Pull the tail through, keeping a bit back
8. Reach through that protected loop (my left hand in this picture)…
9. Grab the tail (or hand the rope to your fingers like I am doing here)
10. Pull the tail through
11. Make sure that all the strands in this strap are flat and even and have the same tension
12. Tighten the half hitch to lock off this strap
13. Run the ropes around the upper chest, then reach under the newly placed line and grab the tail
14. Reverse tension
15. And run around your partner’s upper chest again, placing this second wrap below the first wrap
16. Reach through the bight that you formed in step 14 and grab the tail
17. Pull the tail through
18. Hold a bit of the tail with one hand and use the other to reach under the upper strap and grab the tail…
19. Pull the tail through (like I am doing with my right hand), keeping a bit back to form a loop (like I am doing with me left hand)
20. You are already holding that loop, so just stick two fingers through it…
21. …and grab the tail
22. Before we lock off this strap, confirm that all the strands are even, flat and at the same tension. Adjust them if you need to.
23. Tighten the half hitch to lock off
Note that the rope is naturally leading toward the left shoulder in this case, so that is where we will take it next…
24. Lay the rope across the deltoid, not too close to the neck
25. Lay the tail over top of the cords in the upper strap
26. …and on top of the cords in the lower strap
27. Reach under the lower strap, placing your fingers on the *same side* of the tail as the shoulder the tail just came over
28. Grab the tail
29, Pull through
30. Hold the cords of the lower strap flat while you pull on the tail to tighten. Remember, you want this lower strap to be about the middle of the rib cage, not in the lower 1/3. This is what helps keep it high enough
31. Reach under the upper strap leading toward the opposite shoulder
32. Thus
33. This little twist will keep the upper strap from moving too close to the lower strap
We want to keep a separation here so that forces are distributed across more ribs.
34. For most people, you just leave it at the one twist and take the rope over the shoulder at this point. However…
35. If you are tying someone with a larger frame or with large breasts, you may find that there is a sparation between the twist and the upper strap
36. If that happens you may optionally choose to add a second twist by running the tail under the first shoulder strap a second time
37. …like this…
38. Before running the tail under the top strap…
39. ...and moving it over the opposite shoulder. If you add this second twist, you will almost always need to dress the twists to make them look nice.
40. Bring the tail to the back. Lay it *above* the other shoulder strap…
41. …*Below* the upper chest strap
42. …thus…
43. …*above* the center line
44. Then lock it off with a half hitch by reaching under the upper strap to grab the tail
45. Keeping a bit of the tail back…
46. Pull the rest of the tail through. The part that you kept back will now form a little loop
47. Then reach through that loop…
48. Grab the tail…
49. …and pull through
50. Tighten to lock. This is the completed Shinju from the back.
51. Other than some rope that I need to use up…
Completed from the back
Wrapping the rope around the shoulder straps to use it up
Can this be safely used in conjunction with a tie that puts arms behind the back?
Certainly! In fact, that is my preferred way to do a box tie. I start with a Shinju, then put my partner into a Box Tie position, add a Somerville bowline around both wrists, then connect it up into the Shinju. If I want to trap the elbows, I use the tail of the SB to do to and might use a slightly modified Extended Lark’s Head Double Column of similar technique. But you could also do a variety of Armbinder or other techniques to trap the arms. Have fun exploring!
Would the bottom lines be tucked under the breasts if she wasnt wearing the suit?
Yes, directly against the skin of the chest, just below where the breasts connect to the chest. You normally want that strap of rope as high on the rib cage as you can get it and still be low enough that you don’t get any breast tissue under the rope.
Ive tried this with 8m rope only size I have so far. My partner isnt large but quite tall and the rope ended when making frontal V and this is with skipping half hitch at the back. I had to remove one upper wrap to make it work. What do you suggest here – extend the rope Then it will be too much I think.
In a case like that, I would try to consume more rope earlier in the tie. That is, I would actually add an *additional* wrap to the bottom strap and maybe to the top strap as well, then, when I run out, extend my rope with a shorter rope and use that to do the shoulder straps and front before locking off in the back.
When adding additional wraps to the upper and lower straps, above the 2 wraps shown in this tutorial, how often do you reverse the tension? If you reverse tension only once, I could see doing it only after the first wrap, or only before the last wrap. On the other hand, you could reverse the tension in between each wrap, but it also gets a bit messy, because you’d be creating another secondary bight on each reversal, and you’d have to choose which previously-created secondary bight to use for each new reversal. Is it okay to just wrap and have only one reversal either after the first wrap, or before the last wrap?
Yes, if adding multiple wraps, you can just continue going around until done, and then reverse at the end. If you do that though, lock it off with a stronger friction, like and X friction. You can see this being done in the Gote Shibari tutorial (albeit there there is only two wraps in that example, but this can be done with more). https://www.theduchy.com/takate-kote/
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