Un attelage de traversée, ou nodome (の止め), est utilisé lorsque vous souhaitez connecter deux cordons qui se croisent pour les empêcher de glisser librement. Il s'agit d'une approche courante utilisée pour améliorer la stabilité de nombreux liens.
Vous l'entendrez aussi communément appelé le "Munter Hitch", mais le mot "munter" est utilisé comme une insulte dans certaines parties du monde, donc nous essayons de nous éloigner de ce nom...
Ce tutoriel est étroitement lié à Éléments de base - Jonctions. Si vous n'avez pas vu comment tout cela est lié, allez voir !
Pour ce tutoriel, j'ai utilisé Naturel et noir 6mm fourni par mon partenaire Twisted Monk.
Allez voir leurs incroyables cordes de chanvre !
Is there any reason not to do this in the opposite direction? that way you could simply slip a loop of the working rope under the rope being crossed an then put the working rope through that loop. the hitch would be exactly the same just going in the opposite direction. this is how Topologist often ties half-hitches (though i’m not sure whether they are strictly speaking half hitches) and can almost be performed at full speed one handed.
That is a great technique too. Structurally, you end up with the almost the same knot, but just facing the other way. For that reason, many riggers refer to that version as the “Reverse Munter” / “Reverse Crossing Hitch”. The only thing to watch about it is that it take a little more work/attention to get it in exactly the right place. Because you have to have a larger loop to run the tail through, if you just pull the tail to tighten it, it can be easy to move the crossing line a little out of it’s original position. This is easy to counter act by simply tightening in two stages–first tighten the loop, then the tail–but you do need to remember to do it that way if you need your line to stay where it was.
A really useful hitch for conditioning hemp or jute rope! Stick it on a carabiner and pull through.