Cette cravate populaire à colonne unique à tension inverse est attrayante, relativement plate et très sûre.
Les attaches à colonne unique permettent de créer une manchette, une ceinture, une sangle ou une bande qui ne s'affaisse pas autour de n'importe quel objet. un des deux chose.
- Poignet
- Cheville
- Cuisses
- Le genou
- Taille
- Poitrine
C'est le point de départ de nombreux liens, comme la Ceinture de déshabillage (Crotch Rope) et la Cravate à talons aiguilles. (Ici, sur TheDuchy, nous abrégeons parfois "Lark's Head Single Column" en "LHCS").
Les colonnes simples à tension inversée sont plus lentes que les styles à tension directe comme le La bouline de Somerville car ils nécessitent des tractions de la queue (toute la longueur de la corde doit être tirée à travers une partie du nœud pendant le nouage, dans ce cas 2-3 fois). Cela dit, cette cravate est aussi moins encombrante et certains la trouvent plus attrayante. Elle ne peut pas être dénouée sans libérer la queue (cela peut être une bonne ou une mauvaise chose, selon la situation).
Conseil de sécurité important ! Les poignets sont sensibles, ils doivent être manipulés avec précaution.
- Ils ont beaucoup de nerfs et de vaisseaux sanguins près de la peau à l'intérieur des poignets. Une pression trop forte à cet endroit peut avoir un impact sur la circulation sanguine ou la conduction nerveuse. Les manchettes ne doivent jamais être trop serrées ; vous devez toujours pouvoir passer deux doigts sous une manchette.
- L'articulation du poignet elle-même est également fragile. Si vous tirez trop fort sur les poignets, vous pouvez endommager cette articulation ou même pousser certains de ces petits os du poignet dans une mauvaise position. Ne suspendez JAMAIS quelqu'un uniquement par les poignets. Ne jamais attacher quelqu'un dans une position où la corde exerce une forte pression continue sur les poignets.
- Par exemple, vous pourriez attacher les poignets de votre partenaire aux montants du lit, puis saisir ses pieds et les tirer brusquement vers le pied du lit. Dans ce cas, vous risquez d'exercer une pression trop forte sur les articulations des poignets. Attacher votre partenaire au lit peut être très amusant, mais assurez-vous qu'il y a suffisamment de mou dans l'attache pour qu'il puisse bouger ses bras et ses poignets suffisamment pour ajuster la position de la manchette et des brins de corde de temps en temps.
Pour ce tutoriel, j'ai utilisé un morceau de 10′ (~3m) de Chemp 1/4″ (6mm) naturel.
Pour la plupart des liens sur ce site, j'utilise une étonnante Chanvre naturel corde fournie par mon affilié Twisted Monk. Regardez-les !
Contenu de la vidéo :
- Création de la manchette (0:44)
- Verrouillage du brassard, style tension avant (4:04)
- Verrouillage du brassard, style tension inversée (6:16)
Hi, its very clear. Apart aesthetism, does this single colum often use compare to the somervile one ?
Thank you
This question is answered in the tutorial above, in the paragraph that begins “Reverse-tension Single Columns are slower…” If you have further questions beyond that, let me know!
The triangle is such a clean look! I finally got this one after a handful of tries, and it’s kind of great. Thanks!
Hello I have a question about locking bandswrapscuffs off. I notice in the older version here that you lock off by pulling the tail UNDER the cuff then leading it back over the cuff and through the loop. This seems to be the same general idea as in your Locking off a Strap video on the Half-Hitch tutorial page both for the reverse and forward tension examples as well as in the Bondage Belt w Happy Strap and Unchastity Belt tutorials. In the newer version here though for both the forward and reverse tension versions you start by bringing the tail OVER the cuff then leading it back under the cuff and through the loop. The Prusik Single Column tutorial seems to have this same general idea too. What Im wondering is if there is a significant difference between the under cuff first and over cuff first approaches to locking off. I want to make sure Im not missing something important especially if there are safety considerations
Assuming you make sure that all the strands in the cuff have the same tension and are not too tight, there is no real safety difference*, these are all just half hitches locking off the strap.
* One could argue that reversing tension one last time before locking off with a half hitch has a marginal safety edge in that it adds more friction, but it also adds significantly more bulk, which represents a risk too if it tension is added to the tail in such a way that the bulky knot is pressed into the skin in a sensitive area. So I prefer the less bulky version for tails running parallel to the column and I use the Somerville Bowline when the tail is going to run perpendicular to the column.
As a more experienced person and me just learning how would you determine which knot to use. What would determine that I want to use the forward over the reverse. I just needed so clarification.
I need to put together a post on this! Generally, Reverse SCs are good for greater security. They cannot be untied without releasing the tail. They also have a certain look that some prefer. Forward SC, can be tied or untied without releasing the tail. This can be a great safety feature. When “slipped” (as in a Slipped Somerville Bowline), it can allow for a quick release. Check out the Malasana tie for an example.
Is there a way to add additional wraps to this?
Yes. Most riggers tend to stop at 2 wraps (4 cords) or 3 wrap (6 cords) because beyond that the cords tend to start bunching up when you lock them off with the half hitch. That said, I have seen people do many wraps and just account for the bunching by adding a little more slack.
Followup question!
If I were to try a third wrap, would I have to pass the tail through the beginning of the wrapping (so only under two ropes, the ones close to the lark’s head), or should I pass it under both of the other wraps (so under 4 ropes)?
Man, this is complicated to put into words… I’m not sure I explained myself.
I’m still going to try this on myself, but I wanted to get an expert opinion first.
No worries. In Step 5 (after reversing tension), wrap twice instead of once as shown. Then continue on with the rest of steps at shown. In Steps 9-10, go under all 6 strands instead of the shown 4.
I am planning an update of this tutorial sometime in the next few months. I will add this variant to the new version!
Hello! I am new to all this, but just wanted to say I find your site awesome and really helpfull, cheers! 🙂
Hello! I was curious about a part of this tie, after step 8. I notice that the tension is not reversed before locking off the tie with a half hitch. I was previously taught to always reverse the tension before locking it off, so I was curious about the potential advantage/disadvantage of doing so.
Good Question! Both work fine. The advantage of doing it this way is mostly aesthetic (I think it looks nicer) but it is also a bit less bulky. The advantage of adding the reverse before doing you half-hitch is that it is a little easier to set and maintain your tension while locking off the cuff. I personally find that the difference is minimal though. But you raise a good point! I will update the tutorial itself with this comment.
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